In 1965 only a miserable eight hectares of Viognier (pronounced Vee-on-yay) grape existed in its Northern Rhône homeland appellation of Condrieu. Amazing, since some believe the grape had grown here for at least 2000 years, possibly transported to the Rhône from its birthplace in Dalmatia by the Romans.
Since 1965 the grape and its wine has increased in popularity and in its price. At first the increase in planting was gradual with only 20 hectares recorded in 1986, 40 hectares in 1990, 80 hectares in 1995, but climbing to 108 hectares in 2000. But even today this is just over half of the 200 hectares permitted for cultivation in Condrieu at the northern end of the Northern Rhône.
It consists of seven communes located on steep terraced hills, where Viognier is the only variety of grape allowed in this appellation devoted solely to white wine. Any bottle originating from Condrieu is totally Viognier. Some say that low yields, difficult growing conditions and late harvesting contribute to the exceptional, concentrated flavours of Condrieu that ensure prices well over $40 a bottle.
Regulations restrict the maximum permitted yields to a low 30 hl/ha, despite this in the last twenty to twenty five years yields have, on average, only managed to reach 15 hl/ha.
During the 1990s winegrowers from other parts of the Rhône and further a field in France saw the mounting interest in Viognier. Initially the grape was grown to blend with other whites and reds, bringing extra character to well know varieties, and softening the Shiraz wines of the Côte Rôtie.
Temperamental it may be but versatile it certainly is. Now it is increasingly being grown in its own right enlarging the range of pure Viognier wines on the shelves. It is the rapid increase in Viognier plantings in California and Australia that has helped to push the wine onto the world stage.
Before 1990 there were hardly any vines in California - today there are around 800 hectares devoted to the vine. The first vines were introduced in the early 1980’s at Calera, but since 1990 have been planted widely due to the massive demand from Americans. It has been termed a cult wine in the US and accordingly has attracted relatively high prices ($20-$40 a bottle) well exceeding the quality of some of the wines.
The Californians have experimented with combining Viognier with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Colombards.
In Australia, there are over 200 hectares grown in South Australia alone and close to that in Victoria. Alcohol content of Australian wines tends to be high at around 13%+. Other parts of the world demonstrating an interest are Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Mexico, New Zealand, South Africa, Canada and Japan.
Viognier is a remarkably difficult grape to grow. It is prone to mildew, produces notoriously low and unpredictable yields, and needs to be picked when fully ripe. If it is picked too early it fails to develop its classic aromas and rich tastes. But despite, or perhaps because of, this precariousness it has the most amazing clear, golden colour and the aroma of flowers and fruits at their freshest. Many talk of being surprised by the taste; the colour and nose hinting at something sweeter but the actually taste being dry with a variety of nuances both on the tongue and afterwards. In appreciating the surprising dryness of this wine don’t miss out on the few bottles of late harvested, dessert wines that escape from places like Condrieu.
Although low-acidity Viogniers do not require the heavy oaking to provide balance, some sensitive use of oak barrels can enhance the overall flavour. Oz Clarke describes this as a ’swooning wine .. wine that just oozed sex and sensuality.’ It is best known for its apricot, peach and spice flavours, together with high alcohol (often over the 13% mark) and low acidity.
As with many white wines it is generally best consumed young, although the classic Viogniers of the North Rhône (and increasingly wines from the oldest vines in California and Australia) can develop well for much longer. Condrieu has been called ‘the most expensive early drinking wine in the world.’ But with all this talk of quality young wines let’s not forget that there are also an increasing number of late harvest dessert wines that will also last much longer.
You can drink it with many foods or none. Try matching it with spicy Thai cuisine, Chinese takeaways, Mexican dishes, medium to strong and salty cheeses, strong flavoured fish dishes, pork and chicken and fresh fruit.
The Gurdies Winery is one of Australia’s premium cool climate wineries. The weekly newsletter gives you a snapshot of ‘This day in wine history’, more articles like this plus vineyard and winery news
