History of the Viognier Wine Grape

In 1965 only a miserable eight hectares of Viognier (pronounced Vee-on-yay) grape existed in its Northern Rhône homeland appellation of Condrieu. Amazing, since some believe the grape had grown here for at least 2000 years, possibly transported to the Rhône from its birthplace in Dalmatia by the Romans.
Since 1965 the grape and its wine has increased in popularity and in its price. At first the increase in planting was gradual with only 20 hectares recorded in 1986, 40 hectares in 1990, 80 hectares in 1995, but climbing to 108 hectares in 2000. But even today this is just over half of the 200 hectares permitted for cultivation in Condrieu at the northern end of the Northern Rhône.
It consists of seven communes located on steep terraced hills, where Viognier is the only variety of grape allowed in this appellation devoted solely to white wine. Any bottle originating from Condrieu is totally Viognier. Some say that low yields, difficult growing conditions and late harvesting contribute to the exceptional, concentrated flavours of Condrieu that ensure prices well over $40 a bottle.
Regulations restrict the maximum permitted yields to a low 30 hl/ha, despite this in the last twenty to twenty five years yields have, on average, only managed to reach 15 hl/ha.
During the 1990s winegrowers from other parts of the Rhône and further a field in France saw the mounting interest in Viognier. Initially the grape was grown to blend with other whites and reds, bringing extra character to well know varieties, and softening the Shiraz wines of the Côte Rôtie.
Temperamental it may be but versatile it certainly is. Now it is increasingly being grown in its own right enlarging the range of pure Viognier wines on the shelves. It is the rapid increase in Viognier plantings in California and Australia that has helped to push the wine onto the world stage.
Before 1990 there were hardly any vines in California - today there are around 800 hectares devoted to the vine. The first vines were introduced in the early 1980’s at Calera, but since 1990 have been planted widely due to the massive demand from Americans. It has been termed a cult wine in the US and accordingly has attracted relatively high prices ($20-$40 a bottle) well exceeding the quality of some of the wines.
The Californians have experimented with combining Viognier with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Colombards.
In Australia, there are over 200 hectares grown in South Australia alone and close to that in Victoria. Alcohol content of Australian wines tends to be high at around 13%+. Other parts of the world demonstrating an interest are Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Mexico, New Zealand, South Africa, Canada and Japan.
Viognier is a remarkably difficult grape to grow. It is prone to mildew, produces notoriously low and unpredictable yields, and needs to be picked when fully ripe. If it is picked too early it fails to develop its classic aromas and rich tastes. But despite, or perhaps because of, this precariousness it has the most amazing clear, golden colour and the aroma of flowers and fruits at their freshest. Many talk of being surprised by the taste; the colour and nose hinting at something sweeter but the actually taste being dry with a variety of nuances both on the tongue and afterwards. In appreciating the surprising dryness of this wine don’t miss out on the few bottles of late harvested, dessert wines that escape from places like Condrieu.
Although low-acidity Viogniers do not require the heavy oaking to provide balance, some sensitive use of oak barrels can enhance the overall flavour. Oz Clarke describes this as a ’swooning wine .. wine that just oozed sex and sensuality.’ It is best known for its apricot, peach and spice flavours, together with high alcohol (often over the 13% mark) and low acidity.
As with many white wines it is generally best consumed young, although the classic Viogniers of the North Rhône (and increasingly wines from the oldest vines in California and Australia) can develop well for much longer. Condrieu has been called ‘the most expensive early drinking wine in the world.’ But with all this talk of quality young wines let’s not forget that there are also an increasing number of late harvest dessert wines that will also last much longer.
You can drink it with many foods or none. Try matching it with spicy Thai cuisine, Chinese takeaways, Mexican dishes, medium to strong and salty cheeses, strong flavoured fish dishes, pork and chicken and fresh fruit.
The Gurdies Winery is one of Australia’s premium cool climate wineries. The weekly newsletter gives you a snapshot of ‘This day in wine history’, more articles like this plus vineyard and winery news

The History of Shiraz Wine

Shiraz, known as syrah in France, Chile, Argentina and most parts of the United States, is a type of grape. This grape, used to make wine, has a deep purple color. Shiraz is a unique wine, and has one of the highest serving temperatures of them all, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
The name Shiraz is taken from the city of Shiraz, Iran, where it is said that the process of wine making originated 7,000 years ago. According to some historic accounts, Guy De’Sterimberg brought Shiraz to southern France after visiting Iran during the crusades. Eventually, he became a hermit and created a vineyard on a hill near his home in the Rhone River Valley. This wine became known as the Hermitage.
Many times, Shiraz is blended with other grape varieties, like Merlot, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Lately, some Austrailian producers have begun adding nerly 4 percent Viognier to their wine, which adds apricot tones to the scent and flavor of the wine. Because it’s such a small percentage, the producer doesn’t have to declare on the label that the wine is a blend.
Under American wine laws, either Shiraz or Syrah may appear on the bottle’s label, though few American wineries choose to follow the New World style and label them Syrah. While increasing amounts of the grape are being grown in Washington state, California still has the stronghold in America. Introduced in 1985 to the state of Washington by the Woodinville, Washington Columbia Winery, the area is also blending Shiraz with Grenache, Viognier and Cinsault.
In very warm regions, the shiraz grape usually isn’t strong enough to stand on its own in a bottle. In more mountainous areas, however, wineries tend to produce more varietal based wines. This is why many of these wines that come out of Napa Valley, CA tend to be blends.

Oakville Wine Country

To the wine connoisseur, Oakville is synonymous with the magnificence and the majesty of California Cabernet Sauvignon. But for those of us who do not spend our waking hours tasting wine and researching viticulture philosophies, Oakville is just another region in the Napa Valley. To the untrained eye, Oakville is a sleepy town on Highway 29, but it has become California’s epicenter for Cabernet production.
H. W. Crabb first broke ground in Oakville in the middle of the nineteenth century. His To Kalon Vineyard marked the launching point of a storied winemaking history in Oakville, involving battles with Phylloxera and Prohibition; and its ultimate rise to excellence.
Phylloxera (pronounced: Phil – ox – erra) is an aphid like insect that lives its parasitic lifecycle on the rootstocks of grape vines. This menace brought many vineyards to their knees, resulting in the largest wholesale devastation of vineyards in California’s history. Crabb did not succumb to the perilous aphid; instead, he pioneered the implementation of Phylloxera resistant rootstocks. This saved To Kalon Vineyard, and laid the foundations for all Napa Valley Vineyards that followed.
These Oakville Vineyards, whose rise to prominence began in the 1950’s, utilized perfect Cabernet growing conditions to revolutionize California Wine. Warm, sunny days are the primary aspect of the Oakville microclimate that lends itself to Cabernet production. To the south of Oakville are the Yountville Mounts, which block much of the fog that creeps through the valley from the San Pablo Bay. This allows the Cabernet grapes to bask in the sun’s glory, giving rise to fruit forward, complex and balanced Cabs.
Some of the best Cabs in the world come from this historic region. And the crème de la crème of Oakville is Robert Mondavi’s Opus One. Anyone who has tasted this opulent Bordeaux blend can attest to its brilliance.
Even though Oakville enjoys an ideal climate, the soil of this region lays the foundation for premium quality Bordeaux blends and varietals. The home to the best vineyards and wineries in Oakville is affectionately known as the Oakville Bench. This name originated from the landscape of the area; located above the valley floor, but at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains. Ever since the Sonoma Volcanics blanketed Napa County with ash millions of years ago, nutrient rich sediment has been washing down from the mountains, covering the Oakville Bench. This, along with the sandy, rocky soil which naturally exists in Oakville allows for elaborate, penetrating root systems and healthy vines. These vines in turn produce grapes with unmatched flavor and intensity.
It then is then in the vintner’s hands to turn these quality building blocks into opulent world class wines. Because of their world wide recognition, Oakville wineries can attract some of the best winemakers in the world. This distinguished list includes Heidi Barrett; one of the best, if not the best female vintner in the world. Her expertise is used by Paradigm Winery to produce wines that have gained a reputation for excellence among connoisseurs.
The definition of a Paradigm is an example that serves as a pattern or model. This exemplifies the wines that Barrett and Paradigm produce. Their Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon embodies the true glory of Oakville. If you get your hands on a bottle from this up and coming winery, make room in your cellar.
Some of the best wine collections in the world boast a Cabernet Sauvignon from Screaming Eagle. Located in the hills above the Oakville Bench, Screaming Eagle is the epitome of a cult winery. In fact, their 1997 Cab scored a perfect 100 from Robert Parker of Wine Enthusiast. Many wineries lay claim to perfection, but Screaming Eagle walks the walk. If you want to enjoy a wine from Screaming Eagle, get ready to empty the kid’s college fund. I have never seen any of their Cabs sold for less than one thousand dollars, and some fetch a price upwards of five thousand dollars per bottle; ouch.
Unfortunately, no one can taste Screaming Eagle wines without purchasing them. They do not have a tasting room that is open to the pubic. But many other Oakville Wineries do have tasting tours, and you could spend your entire trip to the Napa Valley in Oakville alone.
There are numerous small wineries in Oakville that have earned distinction. One of these wineries is Dolce, whose slogan is “Liquid Gold from Napa Valley.” Their flagship wine ranked 20th in Wine Enthusiast’s “Top 100 wines of 2003”. Visiting their beautiful winery is a pleasure that everyone should enjoy.
The true essence of Oakville Wine is found in the hearts of the winemakers. The land produces the fruit, but the vintners turn this into the wine that embodies the soul of the Napa Valley. Oakville began as paint in a bottle, and has emerged as a true masterpiece of Napa Valley viticulture. Oakville is truly a gem of the Napa Valley and should be a destination for anyone who enjoys wine

History Of Wine Corks And Bottles

As a feature of our modern world wine is securely linked to tradition and the surest indication of that is in your hands every time you purchase or serve it; the bottle and the cork. For most of its history wine was very different from the beverage we enjoy today largely because of the struggle to keep it from spoiling. To purchase wine, individuals went to a merchant with containers of their own to have a portion drawn from ceramic amphorae or large oak barrels. It was not until the 1700’s, with the mass production of glass bottles and the reintroduction of cork as a stopper that wine could be reliably protected from the ravages of oxygen.
Early glass bottles were short and fat with conical necks. By the 1720’s bottles were taller and more cylindrical and could be stored on their side. But, it was illegal to sell wine by the bottle in Britain until the 1860’s. Corks were branded with identification by European wine producers and the tradition of presenting the cork at the table, as is done today in restaurants, was one way of establishing the origin of the contents.
Mass produced, molded bottles became the norm by the mid 1800’s and three basic shapes, the Burgundy, the Bordeaux and the German Riesling, were established. Even today these bottle shapes connect with our perceptions of what kind of wine is inside. Well made Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, for example is put into a Burgundy shaped bottle while Cabernet-based reds and ambitious wines of other black grapes are sold in Bordeaux bottles. Heavier glass is employed for Champagne bottles to withstand the internal pressure of the bubbles.
The glass bottle and the nearly air tight seal of cork revolutionized wine. For the first time flavors could be protected for many years and the idea that wine could mature for a decade or more and reveal previously unrealized character greatly enhanced, no doubt, its aristocratic appeal. The modern status of wine and the flavor profiles that we esteem today would not be possible without bottles and corks.
It is amazingly quaint that a product with the status of wine is shipped and served in heavy, fragile bottles that have seen little change for two-hundred and fifty years. But change is on the wind, with the growing concern over corks and the appearance of synthetic cork and twist caps. Today, very high quality wine is sold with a screw cap closure as some wine makers fear their labors will be spoiled by a faulty cork. Still, every time you pull a cork you take part in one of the few remaining traditions that links us directly to the life of three centuries ago.
Warren Gregory can be reached at gregory.warren@yahoo.com
Have a wine related question or live in or near the Twin Cities in Minnesota? Plan a wine event. Warren is a certified sommelier and writes professionally and leads classes in wine tasting and knowledge. Visit warrengonwine.typepad.com for more fun information on wine and Warren’s adventures in wine and food.

The Miracle of Lebanese Wines

In biblical times, the fame of the wines of Lebanon was widespread. The ambrosial nectar from the lush and vast vineyards in the fertile valleys was much prized and praised. In Hosea 14:7, the words of the Lord pronounced that men who walked in righteousness “. . .will grow like grain. They will blossom like grapevines. They will be famous as the wines from Lebanon.”
The Ancient Vineyards
Five thousand years ago, Lebanon was already into wine making long before the Greeks and the Romans. For the ancient Lebanese people, wine was part of every meal and the highlight of every festive family event.
It was during a wedding in Cana that Jesus performed his first miracle; upon the prodding of his mother, he changed water into wine during a wedding feast. The significance of this miracle is not lost on the Christian world or to the imbibers and connoisseurs of fine wines. The miracle still lives - Lebanon wines are still the best you can find.
The Phoenicians, the ancestors of the present-day Lebanese, sailed the seas to sell their wines. Those who settled in certain areas established vineyards and perfected the technique of fermenting grapes, making their wines the finest in the ancient world.
Before the sun could bathe the valley with light, the field workers hied to the vineyards of Baalbeck Valley to harvest the grapes. The grapes were later pressed to a liquid and aged in large wine vats, subsequently sold to nearby countries and lands across the seas.
Lebanon’s Wine Industry
Is it coincidence or accident that the French occupied Lebanon? France brought along new farming technology and wine making techniques. But it was only in 1837 that the wine industry was modernized. This helped the local vintners develop better wines that catered to different and more cosmopolitan tastes.
The country produces some 6 million bottles of wine yearly. By quantity standards, this number is small compared to other premiere wine-producing countries. But the Lebanese can boast of the quality of their wines, and the wine industry of the country is a fast growing one with 16 wine producers offering the best from their vineyards. The prominent wine producers are Musar, Kefraya, and Châteaux Ksara. These companies have the distinction of winning competitions and their wines are exported to North American and Europe. Their wines also find their way to nearby eastern communities.
The wines survived a troubled past of wars and civil unrest. The Chateau Musar started in 1931 is one of the old wines still produced and was lapped by a drinking public that loved how the wine was adulterated with foreign grapes. This wine is only marketed after six years of aging in huge oak barrels.
Another old wine producer is the Vin Nakad, which produces the favorite Chateau 2000, a full-bodied wine that has notes of fruit and corn. The Chateau 2002 from another wine producer Nabise Mont Liban has notes of musk and framboise and a touch of vanilla.
The Massaya, one of the newer Lebanon wineries, was put up in 1998. Among its offerings are the Massaya “Reserve” red 2000 (a spicy and fruity wine), the Massaya Classic Rose 2001 with its hint of fruity sweetness and herbs, and the fruity Massaya Selection Blanc de Blancs 2001 Bekaa.
Wine will always be part of the Lebanese culture today and in the future. Nations may rise and fall, but friendships will always be sealed with a toast and a quaff of sparkling wine. So drink your Lebanese wine with gusto.

Chinese Food and Wine

When it comes to German Riesling wines and Chinese food, scientists have shown that the different taste qualities inhibit or suppress one another. In the domain of wine and food, we say they balance or compliment one another. Chinese food and Riesling wine is a wonderful pairing.
It is the Riesling grape’s ability to develop high sugar levels while maintaining acidity that produces white wines that age very well and compliment Chinese food as well. Riesling wine is produced from dry to very sweet.
German Riesling wine is not only good at quelling the heat of chilies but it is a perfect wine for Thai and Chinese cuisine.
Selecting the right wine for Chinese food requires identifying the dominant taste (sweet, sour, salty, bitter) sensation of a dish. In selecting a wine for Chinese and Thai food, remember the dominant taste sensations are sour (rice vinegar), sweet (sugar, coconut milk) and salt (soy). Sour (acidity) and sweet also suppress one another; adding sugar to lemon juice reduces the tartness; the level of acidity or sourness has not changed but the presence of sugar changes how we perceive it. Riesling wine’s sweetness counterbalances the Chinese food’s salt and sour.
There is the conventional wisdom of pairing Gewurztraminer wine and Chinese food with highly spiced Szechuan dishes, which is logical except that they are higher in alcohol and often low in acidity.
Gewurztraminer literally means “spice grapes”. The California variant has a “spicy-peach” flavor along with a hint of ginger. Other possible choices in the pairing of Chinese food and wine are a French Puilly Fousse or a Sauvignon Blanc.
Cantonese, China’s “haute cuisine”, dishes are much more subtly seasoned. For this Chinese food and wine pairing try a sweet fruity wine, such as a German Riesling, and you will enjoy wonderful results. Meanwhile, a red Bordeaux wine pairing with Chinese food is particularly appropriate for Shanghai cuisine which tends to be quite rich so the tannin in the wine plays the role of cutting the grease.
A Merlot wine and Chinese food pairing compliments well with Peking cuisine, which often features heavier meats as duck and beef. So does a burgundy such as Pinot Noir.
Dishes with fruit such as bananas, mangoes and peaches, pair well with Pinot Noir, Riesling and Merlot. Sherry or tawny Port goes well with dishes that include generous amounts of almonds or peanuts.
Duck and smoked ham go well with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Petite Sirah or Zinfandel wines compliment foods customarily forward with fruit and spice, liberally laced with Szechuan peppercorns, chili peppers, wasabi, mustard or curry.
Chinese cuisine often consists of varied dishes, some notably sweet, some spicy, others fruity or smoky or delicate. There will likely be chicken, lobster, pork and duck.
When it comes to Chinese food and wine selection, no one wine will accommodate a vast range of flavors and textures.
There are a few wines that will work well paired with Chinese food. They are a medium-dry to lightly sweet Riesling, a middle-of-the-road Chardonnay and a mild, full-bodied Merlot with just the right amount of acidity. Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot wines always go well with a variety of foods and are very safe to be among your choices when pairing a wine with Chinese food to enhance the experience.
The real key to the pleasure of wine and food is simply relaxing and enjoying conviviality with friends. Now that you know the best wine pairings, Chinese food anyone?
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Personality of Wine?

Just as you can imagine the different flavors of steak, chicken, and pork chops without actually eating them, you can learn to imagine the flavors of zinfandel, pinot noir, merlot, and other wine varietals. Being conscious of the differences makes buying wine and pairing it with food much simpler.
PINOT NOIR
Personality: Sensual and understated. Pinot noir is one of the most food friendly red wines, thanks to lots of inherent acidity.
Origin: The Burgundy Region of France, though great examples also come from California and Oregon.
Aroma, flavor, and texture: Rich Loamy earth, mushrooms, warm baked cherries; usually medium-bodied flavor with a smooth, supple texture that’s often described as silky.
Cost: From $20 for a decent American version to more than $100 for a top-quality French Pinot.
Try it with: Grilled salmon, most anything with mushrooms (Risotto with mushrooms!), roasted chicken, and duck breast.
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
Personality: Rich, dramatic, even a bit wild
Origin: Northern Rhone Valley of France; also made in Australia (where it’s called shiraz) and the US.
Aroma flavor, and texture: Wild berries, chocolate, black licorice, black pepper with hints of meatiness; medium to full bodied flavor, with a soft, thick mouthfeel. Australian shirazes, in particular, are big, plush examples of the wine world.
Cost: Modest (good shirazes can be had for $15) to $40 plus for the top French examples.
Try it with: Lamb or slow-cooked hearty meaty stews and casseroles.
MERLOT
Personality: Depends on price - inexpensive merlots are simple, basic red wines of little character. But if you spend $25 or more, you’ll get a wine as rich and majestic as cabernet sauvignon.
Origin: The Bordeaux region of France; California and Washington State.
Aroma, flavor, and texture: Cocoa, red plums, cassis, espresso, cedar, tobacco; medium to full bodied. The top merlots have a lot of structure.
Cost: From $10 for inexpensive Chilean merlot, $20 to $40 for a very good merlot from California, to more than $2000 for a bottle for the top Bordeaux made merlot.
Try it with: Meat dishes such as roasted chicken, braised short ribs, or steak.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Personality: The preeminent classic red variety, thanks to its complexity, majestic structure, richness, and capacity to age for decades - the Sean Connery of red wines.
Origin: Bordeaux, France, but terrific examples are now produced in virtually every great red wine region of the world.
Aroma, flavor, and texture: Similar to merlot, only bigger, deeper, more intense, and powerful. Watch out, though, for poorly made, cheap cabernet sauvignon, which can be dank and weedy.
Cost: Moderate ($15) to expensive ($75); plan to spend at least $25 for a very good bottle.
Try it with: Grilled steak (cabernet and grilled steak are considered a classic American pairing) and roast beef.
ZINFANDEL
Personality: Thick and jammy, like blackberries simmering.
Origin: Croatia, though virtually all of the top zinfandels are now grown in northern California.
Aroma, flavor, and texture: Like a big boysenberry pie with vanilla ice cream - full bodied, mouth filling, and flannel soft.
Cost: $12 to $30.
Try it with: Meat loaf, barbecued ribs, burgers, bean and vegetable casseroles, or pot roast. Open a bottle with Chipotle Barbecue Burgers with Slaw.